PISANG PEAK 6,091M / 19,983FT

'Amidst diverse picturesque scenery, from the paddy terraces to the high artic terrain, constant views of the world's highest mountain range including Annapurna, Manaslu and Dhaulagiris. In the worlds deepest Gorge in the backdrop of traditional Buddhist culture with charming villages in the ancient trans-himalayan trade route'.

Introduction

This is one of the classic and rewarding adventures in Nepal. The dramatic deep valleys and scenery of mountain landscapes, diverse climate and its rich vegetation makes this trip a memorable and truly awe-inspiring. Trekking northwards from the road head at Beshishar onwards, entering the gorge of the Marsyangdi River, which cuts through the great Himalaya chain of high peaks between the Annapurnas and Manaslu, creating a valley that transcend by the high pass of Thorang-la to the deepest gorge of Kali-Gandaki river Valley which again passes through the high mountain range of Dhaulagiri and Annapurna, beginning this adventure from the low subtropics farmland of Nepal's 'middle hills' into the high alpine region on the north side of the Annapurnas, which is the domain of Tibetan Buddhism culture making this adventure a very picturesque from every aspect of trekking environments.

Pisang peak rises from yak pastures above the village of Pisang, in a uniform slope to the final summit pyramid which is an undistinguished snow and ice slope.

Looking from above Humdre the peak is more interesting and can be seen as a curved ridge, with the face above Pisang being the truncated southern end of the mountain. This is made up of steeply tilted rock, the dip slope of which faces the valley and is well seen in this peak and the great rock slabs further down the valley.

The peak obviously has a lot of scope for exploration and pioneering. The whole of the western flank, which is guarded by a hanging glacier which might appear to offer a considerable challenge, whilst a traverse of the whole summit ridge which connects to a more northern summit before curving back west looks a superb possibility.

Access to the western end of the ridge, however, looks problematical as the ridge is guarded by a huge rock slabs, a feature on this side of the valley.

The Climb

South-West Face and Ridge

The first ascent was made solo by J.Wellenkamp in 1955 during a German expedition to Annapurna. This same expedition also made an ascent of Chulu East. From upper Pisang village ascend a path through sparse wood and pastures to a kharka (sherpard shelter) at 4,380 meters (14,370ft). which provides a good site for base camp. A faint trail continues on open hillside, following a ridge and climbing to a shoulder on the south-west ridge at 5,400m/17,716ft a suitable site for high camp.

Under some conditions this may be under snow. Above, a well defined ridge leads to the final snow slope which leads quite steeply although without difficulty to the summit. Descent is made by the same route.